MOTHER LAURA'S

OCOTLAN, OAXACA: OUR FAVORITE INDIGENOUS MARKET PUEBLO AND MORE

2009-05-23T17:50:00.002-05:00

OCOTLAN, OAXACA: OUR FAVORITE INDIGENOUS MARKET PUEBLO AND MORE

One of the highlights of visiting Oaxaca is a chance to visit one or more of the weekly markets (mercados) in the outlying pueblos which surround the city of Oaxaca. Our favorite weekly Mercado is located in the town of Ocotlan which is approximately 18 miles south of the city of Oaxaca on Highway 175 and which is easily reached by either second class buses or collectivo taxis from Oaxaca. In addition to the main attraction which is the huge Friday Mercado, Ocotlan has a beautifully restored church and monastery on an attractive main plaza. It’s this combination of wonderful offerings which makes Ocotlan the town we return to again and again.

The highlight of a visit to Ocotlan on Friday is the amazing outdoor Mercado which spreads out from the main plaza for blocks and blocks. Beneath a riot of colorful tarps, massive amounts of merchandise – much of it modern stuff, but also plenty of old-fashioned goodies – cover a multitude of tables and street-laid mats. How about a handmade saddle for your burro or a wooden yoke for your oxen? If not that, perhaps four or five turkeys (live), a goat, or perhaps a dozen bags of locally grown chilies, herbs, fruits, or vegetables. The selection is endless and the colors are brilliant! Also to be found: pottery, baskets, cutlery, leather goods, hats, wood carvings, and beverages such as mezcal. There are plenty of outdoor stands serving hot, just-off-the-grill dishes for your tasting. And of course, the municipal indoor market is filled with permanent food stands where you can sit and be served some local dishes for your enjoyment.

In addition to the Friday mercado, a must visit is the gorgeous Templo de Santo Domingo church. Fortunately, Ocotlan has come upon good times greatly due to Rudolfo Morales, the internationally celebrated but locally born artist, who dedicated his fortune to improving his hometown. The Rudolfo Morales Foundation has continued the work he started before his death. The most visible expression of this work is the Temple de Santo Domingo which has been completely rebuilt, from its bright blue, yellow, and white exterior to the Baroque gold glitter of its nave ceiling. Absolutely and totally beautiful! In the painstakingly restored monastery behind and adjacent to the Temple are exhibits of religious art from the monastery and the church as well as some of Morales’s own work. At one of our visits, there was an amazing exhibit in the monastery of the ceramics by the internationally renowned Aguilar sisters of Ocotlan. See our photo album for pictures of these charming and wonderful ceramic creations. A wonderful and worthwhile place to visit!

The Casa de Cultura Rudolfo Morales, in the yellow-pained mansion at Morelos 108, is three doors north from the plaza’s northwest corner. In the graceful and patrician interior of the Casa de Cultura, Morales family and staff manage the foundation’s affairs, teach art and computer classes, and sponsor community events. On the second floor is a gallery exhibiting collages by Morales. The Casa is open to visitors every Friday. It is a quiet and charming way to end your visit to wonderful Ocotlan.

On the way to Ocotlan, there are three additional villages which hold their weekly mercado on Friday. If you have the time and chance, it would be worth your while to visit one or more of the following pueblos: San Bartolo Coyotepec (famous for its black pottery), Santo Tomas Jalietza (famous for its hand-woven belts and leather goods), and San Antonio Castillo Velasco (famous for its finely hand-embroidered blouses and dresses). HERE’S A GREAT SUGGESTION: If you can manage to be in Oaxaca for two consecutive Fridays then you could visit these villages on one day and leave one whole day for just Ocotlan! Excelente!

Please view our photo album from our visits to Ocotlan. It’s best and easiest to view the photos as a “slideshow.” Please let me know if you have questions. I always enjoy hearing from travelers! Hasta luego! Laura

HELPFUL HINTS FOR HANGING OUT IN OAXACA, MEXICO

2009-05-09T12:26:00.000-05:00

HELPFUL HINTS FOR HANGING OUT IN OAXACA, MEXICO

Whether a vacationing tourist or a full-time expatriate living “La Vida Buena” as my husband and I do, it can be a challenge arriving in a new city and learning the “In’s and Out’s” of the local scene. For this very reason, I am giving you my “Helpful Hints for Hanging Out in Oaxaca City” so that you can better spend your time exploring and enjoying the city without stressing over the practical and mundane aspects of travel. Although these hints are specific to the city of Oaxaca, many of them can be applied when visiting other cities and areas of not only Mexico, but other Latin American countries. Hope you will find them helpful!

Airport Transportation: TRANSPORTACION TERRESTRE AEROPUERTO is a terrific Airport Taxi shuttle service which utilizes multi-passenger shared vans with service not only to the center of town, but to other areas as well. The cost from the airport to your hotel in the city center is $44 pesos (approximately $4.00 US per person depending on the current exchange rate) Return service can be arranged at their office facing the Cathedral at Alameda de Leon #1-G. Phone number: (951) 514 4350

Other Transportation Options:

Local Taxi Service: Our favorite taxi service is SITIO CONSTITUCION at (951) 514 1651 which is efficient with reasonable rates. They will give you the taxi car number for identification and quote the rate if you ask for it when requesting the pick-up. In general, taxis within the city center cost a flat $30 pesos and those outside the city center $40 pesos and above. ALWAYS CONFIRM THE TAXI RATE FOR YOUR DESTINATION WITH THE DRIVER BEFORE YOU ARE UNDERWAY. THIS APPLIES WHETHER YOU ORDER THE TAXI BY PHONE OR PICK ONE UP ON THE CITY STREETS!

Collective Taxis (“Collectivos”): Communal collective taxis are found around the Central de Abastos Market on the edge of the city. Each taxi squeezes in five (5) passengers going to the same destination outside of the city area for a rate of $15 pesos per person. This is a very economical way to visit the out-lying towns even if the passenger may feel like a sardine with his fellow passengers. Each taxi has the name of its destination on its windshield and they are congregated with other taxis based on their common destination. Just ask anyone on the street and they can point you in the right direction!

City Buses (Urbanos): Oaxaca City has an extensive public bus system with many competing companies covering the same routes and areas. Each bus has the name of the principal destination and some smaller in route stops on their front window. All city buses charge $4 ½ pesos per passenger. When learning your way around, I strongly advise you to confirm your destination with the driver BEFORE YOU PAY HIM AND SIT DOWN.

Otherwise you may have an unexpected “scenic” excursion that you may not have bargained for! Rest assured that you cannot get too lost in Oaxaca City and that you are only a “safe taxi ride away” to your actual destination if things get too frustrating. If you have the time and inclination, it can be quite interesting to get-lost-on-purpose. Often the most surprising, memorable, and enjoyable experiences happen when not planned so just go for it!

Second Class Buses: Also known as “Chicken Buses” because of the live poultry that may be going home with your fellow passengers. These buses can be very colorful with locals and more often than not, crowded, hot, and noisy. But they often provide an experience which you will remember for a long time. The second class buses are found in the Second Class Bus Terminal next to the Central de Abastos Market. This can be a very busy and confusing place, but from here you can join the locals going to the outlying towns and pueblos. They are cheap and depart frequently. Just mention your destination, look confused and lost (not difficult to do) and someone will help you out!

First Class Buses: The Bus is the king of the Oaxaca road. Bus lines connect virtually every town and most villages in Oaxaca as well as most of Mexico. First Class and Luxury (Lujo) Class buses are located at the ADO Bus Terminal on the northern edge of the City. The service offered here is a world away from that of the Second Class buses. Direct bus services to the Pacific Coast of Oaxaca (Huatulco, Puerto Angel, Puerto Escondido), to Mexico City, Puebla, Vera Cruz, San Cristobal de las Casas, etc., etc. depart from here.

The best way to book and pay for a bus ticket is through the on-line service called: WWW.TICKETBUS.COM.MX This service also has two local Oaxaca City offices. This on-line site is great because you can check destinations, departure information, length of trip, and price. In addition you can reserve and pay for your tickets without having to go to the bus station or one of the local branches. This is an amazing service that handles all first class bus lines for the southern part of Mexico beginning at Mexico City. I am hoping they extend their service to the northern part of Mexico in the future. Check it out!

EAT AS THE LOCALS DO!

COMIDA CORRIDA (FIXED MID-DAY LUNCH MENU): Oaxaca has amazing food and it is known as one of the most important culinary centers of Mexico. The variety of food and the variety of places to enjoy Oaxacan food is one of the outstanding features of this remarkable city. The most traditional meal of the day is the afternoon “comida” which is also the main meal of the day. It is usually served between two and four o’clock. Many restaurants, including small family operated restaurants, offer a fixed menu comida corrida which includes an entrada (soap, salad, or rice/pasta dish), the main plate (a piece of meat prepared with vegetables, rice, or beans), tortillas, the desert of the day (flan custard, fresh fruit, or other sweet), and an aqua fresca (freshly made fresh fruit drink). The price of the comida corrida is fixed, but generally runs between $35 and $50 pesos. Comida corridas are a wonderful way to sample Oaxacan home-style food which is filling and also very economical.

Some of the recommended restaurants and small family operated cafes offering comida corridas are

La Casa del Tio Guero, Garcia Vigil 715

El Buen Gourmet, Ave. Independencia between Pino Suarez and Juarez

Casa Isabel, Calle Cosijoeza between Pino Suarez and Caliz de la Republica

Las Quince Letras, Abasolo 300

La Coronita, Diaz Ordaz 208 (in Hotel Valle de Oaxaca)

20 de Noviembre Market two blocks south of the zocolo (collection of indoor food stalls)

EATS ON THE STREET

Like many visitors, we were concerned about eating the way thousands of Oaxaquenos do – by eating a crisp tlayuda or a savory memela off the comal at one of Oaxaca’s many street stands. Following the sound advice of local friends, we’ve learned to select street stands that produce food that is safe to eat. We advise you look for a stands that draw larger numbers of people, are staffed by more than one person, and where the person handling the money is not the same as the person doing the cooking (or, if it is the same person, to make sure that she always uses a plastic glove when handling money). We recommend the following street stands for delicious and cheap snacks:

*The stand on J. P. Garcia three block south of the zocolo along the west side of the Artesan’s Market for great breakfast treats

*The stand alongside of the Templo San Agustin, on Guerrero near the corner of Fiallo.

*The stand alongside of Carmen Alto Church on Garcia Vigil (across from the Casa de Benito Juarez Museum)

*The trailer at the southeast corner of Jardin Conzatti (Reforma and Gomez Farias) for great tortas (sandwiches)

*The outdoor organic market held on Fridays and Saturdays at El Pochote, behind the arches of what used to be Oaxaca’s aqueduct (up Garcia Vigil to Rufino Tamayo)

COFFEE FIXES

A favorite pastime for many visitors is searching out the best places to drink coffee or buy coffee beans. The state of Oaxaca grows excellent quality coffee and most of the coffee shops offer some coffee that is locally grown. Here are some of the favorite places to enjoy a cup of café:

*Nuevo Mundo at M. Bravo 206

*Café Gecko at Cinco de Mayo 412

*Coffee Beans at Cinco de Mayo 400

*Café La Antigua at Reforma 401

*Pan & Co on Garcia Vigil (great pastry)

*The Italian Coffee Company, M. Alcala facing Santo Domingo Church and Hidalgo 817 off the zocolo

*The organic market at El Pochote, Friday and Saturdays, for organic ground and beans (see “Eats on Street” above for location

FREE LOCAL INFORMATION, RECOMMENDATIONS, AND CHEAP USED BOOKS!

The Oaxaca Lending Library located at Pino Suarez 519 (one block south of Parque Juarez aka Parque Llano) is a great source of friendly advice, information on current events, recommendations on local businesses, rentals, etc., etc. and cheap used books for sale. The Library is staffed by local volunteers and is the unofficial hub of the local expatriate community. The Library has many worthwhile projects benefiting the local communities of Oaxaca and donations are always appreciated. It is a friendly and casual place where you can drop in, have a cup of coffee and a bagel, say hello, and visit with local members. Hours are Monday through Friday 10-2 and 4-7, Saturday 10-1, closed Sunday. Check out their site at: www.oaxlibrary.com

I hope these Helpful Hints will facilitate your visit to Oaxaca! Please do not hesitate to contact me if you have any questions or comments. Hasta pronto, Laura

OAXACA’S SPECIAL ANNUAL FESTIVALS ARE GREAT TIMES TO VISIT!

2009-04-21T12:43:00.000-05:00

OAXACA’S SPECIAL ANNUAL FESTIVALS ARE GREAT TIMES TO VISIT!

Oaxaca de Juarez (simply called “Oaxaca”) is the amazing city and capital of the state of Oaxaca in Mexico and also the culture center of this vast state. Oaxaca has an incredible offering of annual cultural, traditional, and religious festivals and events. Hardly a day, let alone a week, goes by on the calendar where there is not some special event that can be enjoyed by the residents and visitors of this city. The majority of these events are not only open to the public, but are free of charge. The challenge to the resident, and also to the visitor, is often choosing between the large amount of things to see and do at a given time. The following is a list of the most anticipated and enjoyed annual festivals in Oaxaca which we especially enjoy. Keep in mind that the same annual festivals and celebrations that occur in the City of Oaxaca also take place all over the state along with the fiesta of each local patron saint. The following events are arranged in chronological order.

SEMANA SANTA

The spring celebration that draws thousands of visitors, both nationals and international, is SEMANA SANTA, the week before Easter Sunday. The entire forty days of Lent are packed with religious pageantry in Oaxaca and surrounding towns. The crowning event, however, is the Silent Procession on the evening of Good Friday wherein each of the twenty local churches and their members participate in a huge candle light procession. . It is a very moving and beautiful event. On Good Friday a passion play also takes place in the nearby pueblo of Zaachila. Oaxaca’s unique cultural mix is evident in the indigenous Danza de la Pluma, Dance of the Feathers, which is held at Carmen Alto Church on Easter Sunday. Please see links at the bottom of this posting.

GUELAGUETZA FESTIVAL

The Guelaguetza is Oaxaca’s huge folkloric dance festival which is held on the two successive Mondays following the national holiday commemorating the death of Mexico’s indigenous former President, Benito Juarez, who was a native of Oaxaca. Indigenous groups from the seven regions of Oaxaca State flood the city to present their traditional music and dances in stunning and colorful costumes. Guelaguetza is still practiced in the villages around Oaxaca and is celebrated once a year, usually on the last two Mondays in July. Locally it is sometimes referred to as Lunes de Cerro (Monday on the Hill). The fiesta is held at Cerro del Fortín, an amphitheater which offers magnificent views of the city. Oaxaca is always crowded at this time because of the popularity of this fiesta. Most visitors are from Mexico's larger cities and from Europe although it is becoming more and more popular with North Americans.

The fiesta is also in honor of Centeotl, the goddess of corn. Even missionaries incorporated it into the celebration of the Virgin of El Carmen in the middle of July. Since 1932 (Oaxaca’s 400th anniversary) groups from the seven regions of the valley of Oaxaca have presented carefully chosen dances with local characteristics and regional dress at this annual festival. During the dances, to symbolize the commitment to sharing, local gifts are tossed to the crowd.

The two dates for this year’s two show presentations are Monday, July 20, 2009 and Monday, July 27, 2009 (please confirm when making reservations!). It is a week packed with festivities and advance hotel and show tickets should be booked in advance. See links at the bottom of this posting.

EL DIA DE LOS MUERTOS

At the end of October each year, visitors flood Oaxaca for El Dia de los Muertos, the Day of the Dead. This is a traditional and indigenous event reflecting a uniquely Mexican view of life and earth which is a joyful rather than a somber time. Imaginative skeletons, beautiful sand paints, flowers (especially marigolds), candles, unique candies in the shape of skulls, special foods which were favorites of the deceased, and home-made altars and offerings appear everywhere as residents prepared to commune with loved ones who have died. The most touching period starts in the late afternoon of October 31st. That’s when angelitos, “the little angles” or dead children, revisit their families. From then until the afternoon of November 2nd, families gather in cemeteries, decorate the graves of deceased relatives, and bring food, drink, and special favorite objects of the deceased to share with their faithful dead. Visitors can experience this pre-Hispanic tradition at burial grounds in the nearby towns of Xoxocotlan, Santa Maria Atzompa, Zaachila, San Antonio, Etla, and San Felipe del Agua. Oaxaca’s San Miguel Cemetery also has an observance, but it is much lower-key. Please see links at the bottom of this posting.

CRISTMAS SEASON

Oaxaca is truly magical during the Christmas season when the zocalo (main plaza) is decorated with giant living poinsettia trees and the days are warm and sunny with cool and crisp evenings. The churches are festooned with gorgeous fresh flowers and the spirit of the season is all around the city. Many of Oaxaca’s churches sponsor lovely candle t processions led by children dressed as Mary and Joseph and accompanied with musicians and fireworks. The Virgen de la Soledad, Oaxaca’s patron, is celebrated up to and including December 18th when a special parade takes place around the Soledad Basilica where the area is packed with stands selling foods and crafts. On the evening leading up to and including Noche Buena (Christmas Eve), churches and other groups sponsor posadas (the reenactment of the faithful going from door to door carrying candles, singing traditional Christmas songs, and asking for posada (shelter). Colorful floats from all of the city parishes arrive at the zocalo around 9:00 PM on Christmas Eve.

Oaxaca’s pre-Christmas festivities also include the famous and not-to-be-missed Noche de Rabanos, Night of the Radishes. On December 23rd starting in the afternoon until late that night, the entire zocalo is taken over by a multitude of display tables which are covered with imaginative and unique creations fashioned entirely of carved giant radishes, corn husks, or dried straw flowers. The hand-made creations made for viewing and judging include scenes of processions, village festivals, churches, farmers, musicians, and nativity scenes. This festival is truly one-of-a-kind and not to be found anywhere else! Please see our photographs in the album included with this blog.

The above annual festivals are the largest of the many celebrations in Oaxaca City and our favorites. However, there are countless other fiestas and events in Oaxaca at all times of the year. With so much to see and do in Oaxaca, it is truly amazing how the residents have learned to balance the daily responsibilities of life with that of participating in their traditional festivals. I have listed numerous links below for your exploration which will give you much more detailed information and much more reason to come and visit the wonders of Oaxaca! I WOULD STRONGLY RECOMMEND MAKING HOTEL RESERVATIONS IN ADVANCE OF ARRIVAL WHEN PLANNING TO VISIT THE CITY OF OAXACA DURING ANY OF THE ABOVE FESTIVAL PERIODS! I would enjoy hearing from you if you should have any questions, comments, or suggestions. Until then, gracias! Laura

VERY GOOD WEB SITE FOR CALENDAR OF EVENTS AND DESCRIPTIONS IN OAXACA:

http://www.oaxacainfo.com/calendar.htm

VERY GOOD OAXACA WEB SITES WITH TONS OF INFORMATION:

http://gomexico.about.com/od/festivalsholidays/p/guelaguetza.htm

www.mexperience.com/guide/colonial/oaxaca.htm

http://www.oaxacaoaxaca.com/centro-zocalo.htm

PLEASE REFER TO MY TWO PREV IOUS POSTINGS FOR MORE LINKS AND SUGGESTIONS:

“Welcome to Wonderful Oaxaca City” dated April 2, 2009

“Oaxaca City: More Things to do and See” dated April 4, 2009

Puerto Escondido and Huatulco Travel

2009-04-11T15:42:00.003-05:00

PUERTO ESCONDIDO AND HUATULCO: OAXACA PACIFIC COAST BEACHES

As much as we love living in Oaxaca City, the exciting and beautiful colonial city and capital of the state of Oaxaca, we often feel the draw of the wonderful Pacific coast beaches of Puerto Escondido and Bahias de Huatulco which are also located in the state of Oaxaca. As native born and life long residents of Southern California, it is difficult, if not completely impossible, to get the Pacific salt water out of our veins. The sand and sea of the long Pacific coastline of Mexico is one of the great attractions of living in Oaxaca.

Puerto Escondido and Bahias de Huatulco (generally called simply Huatulco) are both beautiful and wonderful beach areas and resorts. And yet they are very different from each other in style which is part of their great appeal. Puerto Escondido is pretty laid-back and funky while Huatulco is more sophisticated and polished. We enjoy spending time in both locales as it gives us a variety of beach experiences with the convenience of them being less than two hours driving time apart from each other.

PUERTO ESCONDIDO has long been prime territory for international surfers. Although it considers itself a resort, Puerto Escondido is still a fishing village. Its pedestrian walkways, crowded with open-air seafood restaurants, shops, and cafes is lively, but also incredibly relaxed. Puerto Escondido is divided into three sections, each attracting a different clientele. El Adoquin is the area that runs right through the center of the town. This area is most popular with Mexican families. You will find plenty of inexpensive shops, restaurants, and hotels along its four block. Calle Morro is the domain of foreign “young things” as this road parallels Playa Zicatela, the principal surfing beach which is internationally known for its two surfing championships in August and November. A lot of surf-side-shacks sell cold beer and casual food while there is wide variety of accommodations available right apposite the long beach.

Northwest of El Adoquin (“the downtown area”) overlooking the sea are the Carrizalillo, La Rinconada, and Bacocho neighborhoods. These are the least developed of the tourist areas and primarily residential, but with great access to gorgeous beaches, a few lovely hotels, and some of the best restaurants in the entire area. THIS IS OUR FAVORITE AREA WHEN VISITING PUERTO ESCONDIDO! Our favorite beaches in this area include: Playa Bacocho (home of Coco’s Beach Club which we really enjoy!), Playa Carrizalillo (great for swimming and surfing, but with 167 steep steps down and another 167 steps back up!), and Playa Manzanilla and Playa Puerto Angelito (both with swimming, snorkeling and thatch roofed beach- side restaurants). At the end of the post you will find good LINKS for finding listings of hotels, restaurants, activities, etc., etc. for Puerto Escondido

BAHIAS DE HUATULCO (HUATULCO) is very different from Puerto Escondido in its origin, development, and ambience but equally special and wonderful in its own unique way. With no roads to the outside world, the Bahias (Bays) of Huatulco remained virtually uninhabited and undeveloped until 1982 about the time the coastal Highway 200 was pushed through. Fonatur, Mexico’s government tourist development agency, then started the construction of the master planned resort and residential area of Huatulco. Great efforts have been taken to insure the development of the area in an ecologically sound and sensitive manner. In 2000, Huatulco became the first tourist community in the Americas and the third in the world to receive the “Green Globe International Certification” by The Green Globe 21 certification program. This program acknowledges the commitment of Huatulco to the highest environmental standards.

Tourist activities are concentrated in three areas: Santa Cruz, La Crucecita, and Tangolunda... The resort area comprises nine bays in all with 36 beaches and also several ecological preserves where you can find a variety of birds and reptiles. Not all of the bays have been developed and some are reachable only by boat. The following is a brief description of principal bays and their amenities:

BAHIA DE SANTA CRUZ: This bay is the most developed and easily accessible of the bays. It is also the cruise ship destination of the area. It has a lovely beach with many tourist attractions such wind surfing, jet skiing, and snorkeling. From this bay is possibly to take daily boat tours to other less developed bays. On the beach there are beach tents and specialty restaurants. Several deluxe hotels and travel-oriented businesses are located near this beach harbor.

BAHIA DE TANGOLUNDA: This bay with its five beautiful beaches is the area of luxury hotels (5 stars), upscale shopping areas, and a professional 18-hole golf course. There are also some residential areas.

BAHIA DE CHAHUE: The beautiful beaches of this bay are the location of tourist’s service including four-star hotels and restaurants serving Oaxacan, Mexican and international food. Its beaches offer an amazing tropical collage of vegetation and interesting rock formations. This bay has been the venue for several important rock concerts in order to support the preservation of the environment.

BAHIA DE ORGANO AND MAGUEY: These bays are side by side. Both beaches have fine white sand and are recommended for water sports, tranquility, and people watching.

BAHIA DE SAN AGUSTIN: This is the last of the nine bays and is located on the far west side. It is accessible only by dirt road or by boat from Santa Cruz Beach (which is preferable unless you have a sturdy four-wheel vehicle). Good snorkeling and funky beach seafood restaurants. One of Mother Laura’s favorites!

For a change of pace, an alternative to staying at one of the developed bay areas is to stay in LA CRUCECITA. La Crucecita (the cross) is the place in Huatulco which most closely resembles a real Mexican town. Its central plaza has a church whose interior is covered with naïve frescos and with a wonderful ceiling mural of Mexico’s patron, the Virgin of Guadalupe. The plaza is surrounded by open-air restaurants, cafes, and tourist shops. Nearby is the local Municipal Mercado which is great for a filling Mexican breakfast and for purchasing tourist trinkets such as T-shirts. Just behind the Mercado is a local mini-convenience market and behind it, a number of wonderful fruit stores with a wide selection of fresh produce There is even an enclosed and air-conditioned “mini-mall” with a movie cine complex. Taxis and collectivos (shared taxis) are abundant and reasonably priced for runs to the beaches and bays which are only about an eight minute drive away.

LA CRUCECITA is Mother Laura’s FAVORITE PLACE TO STAY IN HUATULCO for the following reason. After living for thirteen years in Mexico and other Latin countries, my husband and I prefer living a simpler, more Mexican way of life. The amenities of La Crucecita are terrific and the selection of hotels and food establishments satisfy our tastes completely. Huatulco is a wonderful and beautiful place to visit for anyone who loves gorgeous beaches and bays, nature, and the warm and welcoming personality of the Mexican people. And it has something or someplace for everyone!

The following are my favorite LINKS and PLACES for Puerto Escondido and Bahias de Huatulco. I hope you can visit either or both areas soon. I am sure you will have a wonderful experience. Please do not hesitate to leave any comments or questions you might have in the comments section under this blog. Nos vemos pronto! See you soon!

The greatest link for The Pacific Coast of Mexico including Puerto Escondido and Bahias de Huatulco is ‘TOMZAP” WHICH HAS IT ALL!

www.tomzap.com

www.tomzap.com/escondido

www.tomzap.com/huatulco

A local Oaxacan publication and website: www.oaxaca-mio.com

Mexconnect.com is a great site with expats writing about life in Mexico. This is the link to an article on Puerto Escondido by a fellow expat living in Oaxaca City:

http://www.mexconnect.com/en/articles/2852-puerto-escondido-mexico-s-hidden-oaxacan-beach

Another site for Puerto Escondido: http://www.puertoescondidoinfo.com/pebeaches.html

This site gives you a good idea of the accommodations available in any given place. Log on and enter either Puerto Escondido or Bahias de Huatulco in Mexico:

www.tripadviser.com

This site gives you bus information, routes, schedules, prices, and the ability to book, pay, and print out tickets for Mexico south of Mexico City (which includes Oaxaca and the beach areas). It’s what we use when we want to hit the road! TRAVEL BY FIRST CLASS BUS IF AT ALL POSSIBLE!

www.ticketbus.com.mx

We enjoy staying at one of the following hotels when we are in La Crucecita:

Hotel Flamboyant: www.flamboyanthotelhuatulco.com

Hotel Mision Arcos de Iris Hotel: www.misiondelosarcos.com

RESTAURANTS OF PUERTO ESCONDIDO (see tomzap.com above for details and locations):

La Galeria, Hotel Arco de Iris at Zicaleta Beach – ocean view and extensive menu

Restaurant Santa Fe (in Hotel Santa Fe) at Playa Marinero - excellent, reservations recommended. Highly recommended!

Las Tugas (formerly Seis Palmas) at Villas Carrizalillo, above Playa Carrizalillo - great food and sunsets. Highly recommended!

Sabor al Mar - Playa Marinero (in front of Hotel Santa Fe) – beachside seafood with nice service

Coco’s Beach Club at Playa Bococho (affiliated with Hotel Posada Real) – OUR FAVORITE BEACHSIDE VENUE – entrance fee includes palapas, huge pool, and a beach that goes on for ever! Food and drinks are extra.

Split Coconut at Hotel Jardin Real in Bococho – BBQ ribs, etc. at poolside.

Carmen’s Cafecito – Zicaleta Beach and also La Rinconada – great breakfasts, bakery, lunch, and dinner. Casual

RESTAURANTS IN HUATULCO: We eat predominantly in La Crucecita because we enjoy the casual ambience of the local restaurants and getting to meet and talk to the local owners. I regret that I don’t have the names and exact locations of all of our favorite, but that will be rectified the next time we head to the beach!

Restaurant at Mission de los Arcos Hotel – very friendly American owners, well prepared food, and pleasant service. My husband LOVES their hamburgers! I love their soaps and salads.

Sabor de Oaxaca – across from the Plaza – Learn the ABC's of Oaxacan cooking by trying one of the massive sampler plates! Yum!

Taqueria Bety - Great taco stand with delicious tacos al pastor (spicy pork, shaved off a spit – similar to the gyros in the Greek Islands!). There is also a sit-down Tacos al Pastor joint one-half block (on left side of street) off the SE corner of the plaza (can’t remember the name L)

There are many local family run comedors (casual restaurants) with great food and very reasonable prices. Just sit down and ask for the daily or nightly special and enjoy! I will be updating this list when we return from the beach. Until then…..

Buen provecho and enjoy your stay! Mother Laura

OAXACA TRAVEL: MORE THINGS TO DO AND SEE IN OAXACA CITY

2009-04-04T15:30:00.016-06:00

OAXACA TRAVEL: MORE THINGS TO DO AND SEE IN OAXACA CITY

Oaxaca is an eclectic mixture of cultures, sights, and moods. It’s colorful, bustling, pulsing with life from early morning until late at night. It is also reserved, formal, and a touch mysterious with some of its most interesting aspects behind high stone walls and weathered doors. With just a little Spanish, you might be on first name terms with a friendly Oaxacan within a very short period of time. However, you could also live here for years and never quite touch the heart of this city. A visitor can get a taste of Oaxaca in a day, see most of the major attractions in a week or two, and yet return year after year and still be fascinated. Oaxaca is a city of many contrasts. Many of the great colonial buildings have been beautifully restored and yet others are crumbling or covered with graffiti. It’s a pleasure to stroll the Alcala, the zocalo, and other pedestrian zones, but a few steps away you may be pushing through crowds of busy Oaxaquenos and dodging speeding buses, cars, and taxis on the often poorly maintained or risky sidewalks. Oaxaca is a safe and welcoming place for visitors despite its political and social complexity. It’s patrolled day and night by police officers of various kinds, mostly on foot, and there are almost always plenty of people around. We have heard many visitors comment that they feel safer in Oaxaca than in the cities of their home country. We certainly do and it is just one of the many things that make Oaxaca so appealing!

The following are things to do and see in Oaxaca City that I would recommend to any of our friends visiting Oaxaca which are in addition of the recommendations contained in my Blog Post titled ‘OAXACA CITY FAVORITES” dated April 1, 2009.

The Ethnobotanical Gardens (behind the San Domingo Church and Museum of Oaxacan Cultures) with entrance at corner of Reforma and Constitucion. You must sign up IN ADVANCE for tours in English. Stop by or phone to check on scheduled tours.

Teatro Macedonia Alcala (corner of Independencia and Cinco de Mayo). It’s the perfect setting for Oaxaca’s best music, dance and theater. Refer to the following link for scheduled events: www.oaxacacalendar.com

Benito Juarez Museum (Garcia Vigil 609) which is the restored home and now a museum of Mexico’s only indigenous president. Closed Mondays. NOTE: across the street are two of my favorite street food stands/stalls. Yum!

Benito Juarez Mercado (on Colon, between Miguel Cabrera and 20^th de Noviembre. It’s only one block from the southwest corner of the zocalo and easy to find).
YOU WILL BE AMAZED AND CHARMED BY ITS OFFERINGS AND THE COLORFUL VENUE! A MUST!! THIS IS MY FAVORITE MERCADO (see my photograph album on this post) SO GO THERE!

Take a Cooking Class to learn about and how to make Oaxacan cuisine: Contact the following:

Susana Trilling of Seasons of My Heart Cooking School at http://www.seasonsofmyheart.com.

Reyna Mendoza at Casa Cerro Sagrado in the village of Teotitlan del Valle at http://www.casagrada.com.

Pilar Cabrera at La Casa de los Sabores at www.mexonline.com/OAXACA/sabores1.htm

Take Spanish Classes. Oaxaca has a dozen or more language schools plus many private tutors. Most schools offer a choice of small group classes or private instructions. Flexible schedules, cultural activities and excursions, and home stays with Oaxacan families are offered. Check out the following recommendations:

Instituto Cultural Oaxaca (Juarez 909) http://www.instculturaloax.com.mx

ICC (Instituto de Comunicacion Y Cultura) (Macedonia Alcala 307) http://www.iccoax.com

Oaxaca Spanish Magic at http://www.oaxacaspanishmagic.com

Becari (Plaza San Cristobal, M. Bravo 210) http://www.becari.com.mx

RECOMMENDED MISCELLANEOUS LINKS:

OAXACA LENDING LIBRARY (Pino Suarez 5l9 just south of El Llano Park). This is the main hub of the English Speaking community in Oaxaca although very popular also with the local Spanish-speaking community. Stop in for a bagel and coffee and to meet the “locals.” A great source of free and friendly advice! Also a large selection of used books for sale and a good on-line newsletter. Check it out!! I am a volunteer “Greeter” on Mondays. Hope to see you soon! http://www.oaxlib.org

OAXACA CALENDAR: Great WEB SITE for on-going events, special events, and special venues! Very well done by a resident expatriate and special member of the Oaxaca Lending Library. Check it out !! http://www.oaxacacalendar.com

OAXACA TIMES NEWSLETTER: Contains Classified Ads for rental properties. Not always current, but gives you a general idea of what's offered. http://www.oaxacatimes.com

INSIDE MEXICO, The English Speaker’s Guide to Living in Mexico: This monthly magazine has wonderful write-ups, interviews, and important things to know for expats living in Mexico and for those interested in learning more about living in Mexico. The magazine is two years old and doing a great job. Check it out on-line at the following link: http://www.insidemex.com

Please keep checking MOTHER LAURA’S as I will be posting additional blogs in the near future for the following subjects: A Calendar of Special Annual Events in Oaxaca and Best Times to Visit; Visiting the Surrounding Pueblos and their Market Days; and Time to Go to the Beach in Oaxaca!

Please contact me if you have any special interests or questions regarding Oaxaca. I would like to hear from you. Gracias! “Mother” Laura

WELCOME

2009-04-02T19:34:00.008-06:00

The challenge of exploring a new area and then deciding to
live there on a permanent basis (or until the feet get the “itch”to move on) is what brings excitement, joy, and unexpected surprises to our life. Becoming a part of the local community is very rewarding whether it is volunteering at the local English language library, teaching English tolocal school children, or participating in local fund-raising events. My interest in ethnic cultures and their arts and crafts have been a very large influence in our choice of lifestyle. My personal nature is that of a helpful, supportive, and sharing “mother” to those who wish to know more about “what, where, and how.” I find sharing my experiences with others very rewarding and in this regard I am very much a “mother” to those I meet who want to learn about my experiences, my insights, and suggestions for living “La Vida Buena” or “The Good Life.” Each of my blog’s will describe different aspects of life indifferent countries and locations including, but not limited to Mexico, Guatemala, and Argentina. In as much as we are currently living in Oaxaca, Mexico my initial blog will focus on this amazing area of Mexico. I look forward to sharing our experiences through my blog, photographs, and recommended links and I hope to hear from you with your comments or questions. Gracias! Laura

OAXACA CITY FAVORITES

2009-04-02T19:26:00.000-06:00

WELCOME TO WONDERFUL OAXACA CITY!!!

Welcome to Oaxaca City! My husband and I are currently living “La Vida Buena” in Oaxaca City which is the capital of the state of Oaxaca. Oaxaca is a vibrant and exciting city which combines beautiful and historical Spanish colonial buildings with traditional residential and commercial areas. This blog is NOT a professional tourist guidebook nor does it contain any hidden agenda. It is simple my personal take on this amazing city and some of my favorite things it has to offer. My focus is on the city’s rich art and cultural offerings, its restaurants, shops, and a few of its special hotels. I make no claim to being comprehensive or neutral. My list is not exhaustive, but it does include the places that I most enjoy. These are my personal recommendations which I would share with my very best friends when they come to visit. I hope they will be valuable to you when you come to Oaxaca and say hello!

Oaxaca is an easy city to navigate. Its historical center is small and almost everything you might want to see is within walking distance. The heart of the city is the shady zocalo which is the main .plaza. It is outlined with sidewalk cafes and the Cathedral which is on the north side. It is a great place to people watch and to have a meal or light refreshment So let’s get started!

THE MUST- SEE HISTORIAL AND CULTURAL ATRACTIONS:

The Cathedral (on the zocalo)
The Santo Domingo Church and the attached Museum of Oaxacan Cultures (on the Alcala pedestrian walkway)
The Basilica de Nuestra Senora de la Soledad (on Calle Independencia)
The Rufino Tamayo Museum – Prehispanic Art collection (on Calle Morelos) - A LAURA FAV!
The Museum of Oaxacan Painters (Calle Independencia at corner of Garcia Vigil) - A LAURA FAV!
The Textile Museum of Oaxaca (Calle Hidalgo at corner of Fiallo) - A LAURA FAV!
The Belber Jimenez Museum – private collection (Calle Matamoros)
Henestrosa Library and Casa de la Ciudad – Calle Morelos)

I THINK IT’S TIME FOR A BREAK!!! YOU DESERVE A COLD AGUA FRESCO (FRESH FRUIT DRINK), CERVEZA, OR SHAVED ICE. RELAX AND ENJOY!

WHERE TO SHOP UNTIL YOU DROP:

Benito Juarez Mercado (very colorful and traditional/my favorite for ambiance!), A LAURA FAV!
Abastos Mercado (the “grand-daddy” of them all! It’s huge and a great place to get lost!
Mercado de las Artesanias (handicrafts and traditional clothing) Don’t forget to bargain!
Outdoor Mercado at Labastida Park – near Santo Domingo Church – great local venue with typical clothing and jewelry.
MARO – a cooperative of women artisans with a large selection of arts and crafts. Calle Cinco de Mayo
La Mano Magica (on Macedonia Alcala), La Catrina Chimalli (on Garcia Vigil), and Hecmafer Bazar Artesanal (on Cinco de Mayo) – very special shops

ART GALLERIES GALORE!!

Oaxaca has become one of Mexico’s main art centers and there are dozens of art galleries showing and selling art work in all media. Although Oaxaca is especially known for its graphic art - painting, sculpture, ceramics and photography are all well represented. Here are just some of the many fine galleries in Oaxaca. Check them out!

Galeria Quetzalli, Constitucion #104-1
Galeria 910, 2nd floor of Alcala 305
Sonrya Galeria, Alcala 102
Arte de Oaxaca, Murguia 105
Galeria Indigo, Allende 104 - A LAURA FAV!
Galeria Linda Fernandez, Gurrion, between Alcala and 5 de Mayo
Galeria La Mano Magica

ARE YOU HUNGRY YET???

Oaxaca is one of the primary cuisine centers of Mexico. The variety of regional dishes is extensive and unique. Oaxaca is internationally known for its moles (sauces of many ingredients) and its chocolate (both of which are great souvenirs to take home). But you haven’t been to Oaxaca until you at least try the chipulines (fried and seasoned grasshoppers!). The variety of restaurants and culinary delights will keep the lucky visitor busy and happy for many, many meals. The following are just a few of my personal favorites:

La Biznaga (Calle Garcia Vigil #512) – both comida (“lunch”) and cena (“dinner”) nice covered patio with daily specials of “nueva cocina Mexicana) - A LAURA FAV!
Casa Oaxaca – (Calle Constitucion #104) very expensive and reservations recommended!
Como Agua pa’Chocolate (Hidalgo #612) second floor around corner of zocalo with extensive menu of creative cuisine
Marco Polo (Pino Suarez #808 across from Llano Park) – GREAT SEAFOOD - especially the outdoor oven-baked dishes! Serves comida until 6 PM in garden setting. Go hungry and enjoy! - A LAURA FAV!

There are dozens of other wonderful eating venues including the small and usually family-run restaurants that serve “comida corrida”, a simple fixed price lunch of several courses at very reasonable cost. Try them!!!

There are dozens of local street stands/stalls preparing wonderful and fresh ready-to go food. A majority of the offerings are prepared with freshly made tortillas which you watch being made. Whenever and wherever you see a group of locals standing and waiting to be served you can bet the food is great, safe, and cheap. My favorite street stand is in on Garcia Vigil across the street from the Juarez House Museum. You have to be patient since everything is made to order and the locals love it! Enjoy!! A LAURA FAV!

ARE YOU READY TO SLEEP???

Oaxaca has an incredible variety of accommodations from deluxe five star hotels to backpacker cheapl. I frequently use tripadviser.com to start a search of possible places to sleep and stay when we are going to a new area. In addition, we have stayed at the following when arriving in Oaxaca before we settle into our rental property. We prefer staying in smaller and moderate priced Bed and Breakfasts and Inns. We enjoy the personal attention of the owners and the opportunity of meeting fellow travelers and guests that you customarily meet in such venues. Here are our favorites:

HOTEL LAS MARIPOSAS (Pino Suarez #5l7) next door to OAXACA LENDING LIBRARY (where I volunteer weekly as the “greeter”). The very friendly owner, Teresa Villareal, is very helpful and well-informed. Great gardens and a continental breakfast which is included. www.lasmariposas.com.mx

CASA ARNEL (Aldama 404, Colonial Jalatlaco) in the quiet and charming residential area of Jalatlaco (5 minute walk to Parque Llano/Oaxaca Lending Library) is an economical and friendly two-story inn surrounding a jungle-like garden and with a large roof-top terrace. Different types of rooms with appropriate pricing. Good breakfast offered at additional cost. The husband and wife owners are very pleasant and helpful. www.casaarnel.com.mx

HOTEL AZUCENAS (Prof. M. Aranda 203 at Matamoros) – a restored colonial home with ten rooms and an incredible roof-top terrace with amazing views. One block from Basilica Soledad and five blocks from zocalo Recommended by my California travel agent- owner friend. www.hotelazucenas.com.

ALSO CHECK OUT THIS SITE FOR GREAT PLACES TO SLEEP AND STAY: oaxacabedandbreakfast.org

UNTIL WE MEET AGAIN, I HOPE YOU HAVE FOUND THIS INFORMATION USEFUL. MY NEXT BLOG WILL BE MORE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR OTHER ACTIVITIES WHILE VISITING OAXACA. SEE YOU SOON! "MOTHER" LAURA

OAXACA BACKGROUND INFO

2009-04-02T18:54:00.004-06:00

OAXACA, MEXICO: A Little Background Information is Good for You!

The Mexican state of Oaxaca is located along the Pacific Ocean in the southeastern section of Mexico. Located where the Eastern Sierra Madre and the Southern Sierra Madre mountains come together, Oaxaca shares a common border with the states of Mexico, Veracruz and Puebla (on the north), Chiapas (on the east), and Guerrero (on the west). As the fifth largest state of Mexico, Oaxaca is characterized by extreme geographic fragmentation. With extensive mountain ranges throughout the state, Oaxaca has an average altitude 5,085 feet above sea level with only a small percentage of arable land.

Oaxaca's rugged topography has played a significant role in giving rise to its amazing cultural diversity. Because individual towns and tribal groups lived in isolation from each other for long periods of time, the subsequent seclusion allowed sixteen ethno-linguistic groups to maintain their individual languages, customs and ancestral traditions intact well into the colonial era and - to some extent - to the present day. For this reason, Oaxaca is the most ethnically complex of Mexico's thirty-one states. Even today, it is believed that at least half of the population of Oaxaca still speaks an indigenousdialect.

The city of Oaxaca de Juárez is a beautiful Spanish colonial city with a modern commercial and tourist center. It is also the capital of the state of Oaxaca and it is located at the junction of three of the smaller valleys that make up the Valley of Oaxaca. The ancestors of the Zapotecs were the earliest human inhabitants of the Valley of Oaxaca.

Zapotec families have turned to craft production for the major part of their income. There has long been a high level of craft specialization among the Zapotec villages of the Oaxaca Valley. Some villages produce crafts for the domestic market, such as the red pottery of San Marcos Tlapazola and the reed baskets of San Juan Guelavía. Other communities are known for their food including the cheeses of the Etla District and the famous mescal beverages of Matatlán. Artisans in many towns produce crafts for the international art market including the wooden figures of Arrazola and Tilcajete, the black pottery of San Bartolo Coyotepec, and the wool rugs of Teotitlán del Valle. The fine tradition of hand woven and hand embroidered textiles and clothing is still practiced extensively in many of the villages of Oaxaca with much pride and with a great variety of designs and styles. The traditional indigenous crafts, arts, and textiles of Oaxaca are unique and wonderful. And they can be collected and appreciated by discerning peoples of all nationalities, ages, and lifestyles. Enjoy!